The Complete TopGrass Lawn Care Calendar: Month-by-Month Guide

This is your in-depth monthly guide to lawn care!

By Peter Arnold•21 October 2025•Updated 19 January 2026•24 min read

Welcome to our calendar

At TopGrass, we know that we have to work in partnership with our customers to be able to achieve a lush green lawn. So to help our customers we have provided our handy monthly guide to the lawn care jobs that you can do, alongside our services, to help keep your lawn in top condition all year round!

January

January is a time of year when you will not need to be out on the lawn every day. The cold temperatures will slow grass growth and will therefore stop the need for regular mowing.

The plummeting temperatures of January will cause regular frosts, during this time, you should avoid walking on your lawn, as this can cause lasting damage to your grass by snapping the grass plant.

However, January is the perfect time of the year to make sure that your lawn mower has been serviced, and that its blades have been sharpened to ensure it is ready to go when the growing season returns!

Green grass lawn covered with first snow in a natural pattern

Key Tips For Lawn Care In January

What To Do

Service your lawn mower thoroughly, sharpen or replace blades, change the oil, check spark plugs, clean or replace the air filter, and ensure the deck is free of caked grass
Clean, oil, and store hand tools properly, rakes, edging shears, aerator forks, and other equipment will last longer with proper winter care
Review last year's lawn performance, note which areas struggled, where weeds were problematic, and what treatments worked well
Plan any major renovation work for the coming season and book professional services like scarification in advance
Order grass seed, fertiliser, and any equipment you'll need for spring while stock is plentiful

Watch Out For

Frost damage: Avoid walking on frosted or frozen grass at all costs. When grass freezes, ice crystals form inside the plant cells. Walking on frozen grass crushes these crystals, rupturing the cell walls and causing damage that appears as brown footprint-shaped patches in spring
Waterlogging: If water pools on your lawn for extended periods after rain, this indicates compaction or drainage issues. Make a note to address this with aeration once the ground firms up in spring
Heavy objects: Remove garden furniture, children's play equipment, and any other items sitting on the lawn. Prolonged pressure on dormant grass causes permanent damage and creates dead patches

February

During the winter, conditions are perfect for moss to thrive and spread across your lawn. The damp and cold weather allows moss to establish itself, whilst the grass plant is dormant. To help stop this spread of moss, TopGrass applies a moss control during the winter months to dehydrate and inhibit the moss from growing.

In February, you may be required to mow the lawn if we have a particularly mild winter. If you do need to mow the lawn, then we would recommend only mowing the lawn in dry and frost-free conditions. You will also need to raise your mower height to at least 2-2.5 inches to ensure you do not stress the grass plant by tearing it.

You can also use this period to assess your lawn for signs of lawn diseases, such as fusarium patch. Once you have identified any lawn diseases, you can plan treatments to tackle these problems.

Looking down at a lawn on a cold winter's morning

What To Do

In a particularly mild February, give the lawn a light top if growth has clearly started—set your mower to its highest setting (2-2.5 inches) and only mow on dry, frost-free days
Assess your lawn carefully for moss coverage and severity—this will help determine whether spring scarification is needed
Clear any debris, fallen branches, or remaining leaves that have accumulated—these block light and trap moisture, encouraging moss and disease
Brush or rake worm casts when dry—these are actually beneficial for soil health, but can smother grass and create muddy patches if left to accumulate

Watch Out For

Fusarium patch (Snow mould): Look for circular patches of yellowing or browning grass, often with a white or pinkish cotton-like growth at the edges. This fungal disease thrives in cool, damp conditions and can spread rapidly
Red thread: Check for pink or red needle-like structures on grass tips, typically in irregular patches. This indicates nitrogen deficiency combined with humid conditions
Excessive moss: If moss covers more than 20-30% of your lawn surface, plan for scarification in spring. Note which areas are worst affected—these often indicate underlying drainage or shade issues

End of Season Treatment for Winter

Why get the TopGrass Winter Treatment?

During the winter months, we apply a moss control treatment containing iron to dehydrate existing moss and inhibit further spread. This treatment blackens the moss, making it easier to remove through scarification in spring whilst helping to control the problem before the growing season begins.

What winter treatments do you offer?

We offer various winter treatments for example, all our packages include the End of Season treatment service. Our enhanced package goes one step further, click here to find out more.

March

As temperatures start to rise in March, your grass will start to grow again. This means that you will have to dust off that mower that has been in the garage for the winter months and give your grass its first cut of the season. You will need to cut your lawn at a height of 2-2.5 inches to avoid potentially scalping the lawn.

March also signals a great time to give your lawn its first feed of the year. As we enter the growing season, fertilisation will give your grass a much-needed boost at the start of spring. Our Season Starter Treatment contains a fertiliser treatment comprising nitrogen, potassium and magnesium that all combine to encourage growth, improve colour and improve overall plant health.

March is also the month to address any winter damage that has become apparent. Bare patches, areas of sparse growth, and damage from frost or waterlogging are all visible now and should be tackled while the lawn has maximum recovery time ahead of it.

Image of fertiliser spreader on a larger striped lawn

What To Do

Begin mowing when the grass reaches about 3 inches tall—give it the first cut of the season at a height of 2-2.5 inches, removing no more than one-third of the blade length
Lightly rake the entire lawn to lift any flattened grass, remove debris, and improve air circulation around the base of the plants
Edge the lawn borders with a half-moon tool to create clean, defined lines that make the whole garden look sharper
Address bare patches by lightly raking to expose soil, scattering grass seed, raking again to incorporate, and keeping the area moist until germination
Apply the first feed of the year—a nitrogen-rich fertiliser encourages strong green growth and helps the lawn recover from winter stress

Watch Out For

Scalping: Uneven ground can cause the mower to cut too low in spots, scalping the grass. Walk your lawn before mowing to identify any bumps or hollows, and mow these areas carefully
Cutting wet grass: Wet grass clumps together, blocks the mower, cuts unevenly, and can spread disease. If morning dew is heavy, wait until late morning or afternoon to mow
Late frosts: March can still produce sharp frosts. If frost is forecast, avoid mowing the day before as freshly cut grass is more susceptible to frost damage

Mowing Tips for March

Your first mow of the season is important—get it right and you set a positive tone for the year. Wait for a dry day when the grass is not wet or frosty. Ensure your mower blades are sharp (you did service it in January, didn't you?) as tearing rather than cutting damages grass and invites disease. Set the height to maximum (2-2.5 inches) and resist the temptation to cut shorter, even if the lawn looks untidy. Removing too much leaf area stresses the plant just when it needs all its energy for recovery.

Season Starter Treatment Ready For March

Our Season Starter Treatment provides a carefully balanced fertiliser containing nitrogen for growth, potassium for strength, and magnesium for colour. This combination encourages vigorous spring growth whilst building the underlying health of the grass plant. Applied at this time, it gives your lawn exactly what it needs to make the most of the growing season ahead.

April

As conditions for grass growth continue to improve throughout April, this is when you can gradually start to lower your mower height. We recommend reducing to a height of 1-1.5 inches over the month. Avoid going below a height of 1 inch as this can scalp your lawn and weaken the grass plant.

Although the improved weather conditions of April benefit our lawn's grass growth, it also means that unsightly weeds will start to creep into your lawn. It is important to tackle weeds during this period so that they do not smother and outcompete your grass for vital nutrients. Our Early Season Treatment, which we apply at this time, includes a selective weed control which helps to reduce and control weed growth.

If your lawn requires it, April is a great time of year to have your lawn scarified if it is struggling with thatch and moss. Scarification removes moss and thatch from your lawn to allow moisture, air and vital nutrients better access to reach the rootzone of the lawn. We offer a variety of scarification packages that can be tailored to your lawn's specific needs.

What To Do

Gradually lower your mowing height over the course of the month—reduce from 2-2.5 inches at the start to 1-1.5 inches by month's end, dropping no more than half an inch at a time
Increase mowing frequency to match growth—most lawns need cutting weekly by mid-April, some twice-weekly in rapid growth periods
Address weeds promptly—hand-pull individual weeds while they're young, or arrange professional weed treatment for widespread infestations
Schedule scarification if your lawn has significant thatch buildup (more than 1cm) or heavy moss coverage from winter
Consider a soil test if you haven't tested in the past 2-3 years—understanding your soil's pH and nutrient levels helps target treatments effectively

Watch Out For

Weed establishment: Young weeds are much easier to control than established ones. Tackle dandelions before they flower and set seed, or you'll be fighting ten times as many next year
Mowing too low too quickly: The temptation to get down to a low, neat cut is strong. Resist it. Dropping height too quickly stresses the grass and can scalp uneven areas
Dry spells: April can surprise with warm, dry periods. If the lawn starts looking dull and footprints remain visible after walking on it, consider watering

Understanding Scarification

Scarification is one of the most beneficial treatments you can give your lawn, yet it's often misunderstood or feared. The process involves mechanically removing the layer of dead grass, moss, and organic debris (known as thatch) that accumulates between the grass blades and the soil surface.

When thatch builds up excessively, it becomes a problem. Thick thatch acts like a thatched roof, preventing water, air, and nutrients from reaching the soil and roots where they're needed. It also harbours fungal spores and provides ideal conditions for moss.

Immediately after scarification, your lawn will look worse—sometimes dramatically so. Don't panic. This is normal and temporary. The grass will recover within 4-6 weeks, and the long-term benefits are substantial: better nutrient uptake, improved drainage, reduced moss, and healthier, thicker grass growth.

Early Season Treatment Ready For April

Our Early Season Treatment includes selective weed control that targets broadleaf weeds like dandelions, daisies, and clover without harming your grass. The herbicide is absorbed through weed leaves and transported to the roots, killing the entire plant rather than just the visible growth. This provides lasting control and helps keep your lawn weed-free through the growing season.

May

You should continue regular mowing throughout May to keep encouraging grass growth. May is also a perfect time to have your lawn aerated. A lawn aeration will help to alleviate compaction of your lawn by punching hundreds of holes in the lawn. This allows moisture and nutrients to reach the root zone of your lawn. Soil conditions in May will be suited for aeration, as it should be moist from the spring showers but not waterlogged, allowing easy penetration for the aerator tines into the lawn.

May typically offers the best growing conditions of the entire year. Temperatures are warm but not hot, rainfall is usually reliable, and daylight hours are long. Your lawn should be looking its best—lush, green, and growing vigorously. If it isn't, this is the time to investigate why.

What To Do

Continue regular mowing at 1-1.5 inches, following the one-third rule—never remove more than one-third of the blade height in a single cut
Alternate your mowing pattern each time you cut—this prevents grass from leaning in one direction and avoids creating ruts from mower wheels
Have your lawn aerated—either hollow-tine aeration (which removes small cores of soil) or solid-tine aeration (which simply punches holes)
Apply a light top-dressing of sandy loam after aeration if desired—this fills the holes and improves soil structure over time
Monitor for signs of lawn pests and disease, which become more active as temperatures rise

Watch Out For

Clover patches: Clover thrives in low-nitrogen conditions. If you're seeing significant clover despite weed treatment, your lawn may need more frequent feeding
Chafer beetle activity: Adult chafer beetles emerge in May to mate and lay eggs. If you see large brown beetles flying at dusk, be prepared for potential grub problems in autumn.
Dry patches: Isolated dry patches despite adequate rainfall may indicate localised compaction, fairy rings, or hydrophobic soil. Mark these areas for investigation.

Understanding Lawn Aeration

Aeration involves creating holes throughout your lawn to relieve soil compaction. There are two main methods. Hollow-tine aeration removes small plugs of soil, leaving cores on the surface that break down over time. Solid-tine aeration simply punches holes without removing soil— which is less disruptive and no need to clear up the cores as it does not produce any. This is the method of aeration that we recommend having!

After aeration, you'll notice that water soaks into the lawn more readily, your grass develops deeper roots, and overall lawn health improves. The effects are cumulative—regular annual aeration gradually transforms compacted, struggling lawns into thriving ones.

Lawn Aeration is included in our Standard Lawn Care Package

The Standard Lawn Care Package is one of our most popular plans, combining regular lawn fertiliser and weed control treatments with a Lawn Aeration, a key service that relieves soil compaction, improves drainage, and encourages deeper root growth. Learn more about Lawn Aeration here.

June

As temperatures rise during June, and with rainfall decreasing, you may need to begin watering your lawn to counteract this. We recommend that you water your lawn every 2-3 days if we have prolonged dry spells. You should water your lawn either in the early morning or late evening, as watering during the middle of the day can scorch and damage your lawn. A sprinkler attachment to your hose is the best way to get an even coverage of your lawn, you should water for roughly 1-2 hours each part of your lawn. You can read more about our watering guidelines by clicking here.

What To Do

Begin watering if rainfall is insufficient—your lawn needs approximately 25mm (1 inch) of water per week from rain or irrigation combined
Water deeply every 2-3 days rather than little and often—apply enough to soak the soil to a depth of 10-15cm
Water early morning (5-9am) or evening (after 6pm)—watering in midday heat wastes water to evaporation and can scorch grass
Use a sprinkler for even coverage—water each area for 1-2 hours to achieve adequate soil penetration
Continue regular mowing but be prepared to raise the height if dry conditions persist into the month

Watch Out For

Midday watering: Water droplets on grass blades can act as tiny magnifying glasses, focusing sunlight and causing scorch marks. More importantly, much of the water evaporates before reaching the roots
Shallow watering: A quick five-minute sprinkle might make you feel virtuous, but it does more harm than good. Light watering encourages shallow roots and creates a thatch layer that repels water
Red thread disease: Warm, humid conditions in June can trigger red thread. Look for pink or red needle-like growths on grass tips. A nitrogen feed usually helps affected lawns recover

The Footprint Test

Not sure if your lawn needs water? Walk across it in the evening and look back at your footprints. On a well-hydrated lawn, the grass springs back immediately and footprints disappear within seconds. On a drought-stressed lawn, footprints remain visible for many minutes, the grass lacks the turgor pressure (water pressure inside cells) needed to bounce back. This simple test is more reliable than any schedule.

July

July will see temperatures continue to increase, with conditions getting drier; this will have an adverse effect on the health of your grass. We advise that when mowing during this period, you should raise your mower height to 1.5-2 inches to help prevent scalping the lawn.

If we experience drought-like conditions during July, then the soil of your lawn will become dehydrated and extremely dry. In the worst case, soil conditions can become hydrophobic, meaning that your lawn will actively repel moisture rather than absorbing it. To help counteract this, you can have our Water Conserver Treatment applied to your lawn. This treatment is a wetting agent that helps to improve your lawn's ability to absorb water and also retain moisture. However, this treatment does not serve as a replacement for watering and should be applied alongside a regular watering schedule.

Image of UK lawn in the summer, freshly mown and surrounded by flower beds

What To Do

Raise your mowing height to 1.5-2 inches—taller grass shades the soil, reduces evaporation, and develops deeper roots
Reduce mowing frequency if growth slows—cutting stressed grass adds to its burden. If growth has stalled, don't mow at all
Continue deep watering every 2-3 days following June guidelines, or allow the lawn to go dormant—don't try to maintain a middle ground
If you choose to let the lawn go dormant, stop watering entirely rather than watering sporadically.

Watch Out For

Scalping: Dry, stressed lawns are especially vulnerable to mowing damage. Even your normal cutting height might scalp a lawn that has stopped growing and shrunk slightly
Sporadic watering: Either commit to keeping the lawn hydrated or let it go dormant. The worst option is watering just enough to prevent full dormancy but not enough to maintain health—this keeps the grass in a stressed, vulnerable state.
Foot traffic: A dormant lawn is more vulnerable to damage. Try to minimise heavy use during the hottest, driest periods.

Understanding Hydrophobic Soil

When soil becomes extremely dry, it can develop a waxy coating that actually repels water, a condition called hydrophobicity. You'll notice water beading on the surface like rain on a waxed car, or running off slopes instead of soaking in. Even when you water generously, the moisture doesn't penetrate.

Wetting agents break down this waxy coating, allowing water to penetrate the soil and reach roots where it's needed. If your lawn has developed hydrophobic patches, often visible as brown spots that don't respond to watering, a wetting agent treatment can help restore normal water absorption.

Help with lawns struggling with drought

For lawns struggling with drought, we offer our Water Conserver Treatment. This wetting agent improves your lawn's ability to absorb and retain moisture, making the most of any rainfall or irrigation. It's particularly valuable for lawns with sandy soil or those showing signs of hydrophobicity. Note that this treatment supplements but doesn't replace proper watering during dry periods.

August

During August, you should continue to water the lawn as recommended by our watering guidelines, whilst also keeping up your mowing schedule, raising the height of your mower if we are experiencing dry spells.

Lawn weeds can continue to be pervasive throughout this month, with creeping, small-leaved weeds like that of speedwell or clover being particularly stubborn. You can manually remove weeds during this period, or you can have a selective weed killer applied, which is a part of our Mid-Season Treatment. This treatment targets bothersome weeds that are spoiling your lawn.

What To Do

Continue your July watering regime—maintain consistency rather than changing approach mid-summer
Keep your mower height at 1.5-2 inches and continue the reduced mowing frequency if growth remains slow
Watch for and address creeping weeds—these low-growing weeds can spread significantly during summer when grass is weak
Hand-pull weeds if numbers are manageable, removing as much root as possible
Begin planning autumn renovation work—book scarification, aeration, and overseeding services in advance as slots fill up quickly

Watch Out For

Ant hills: Ant activity peaks in summer. Small mounds of fine soil on the lawn surface are ant hills. While ants don't directly damage grass, the mounds smother grass beneath them and create an uneven surface. Brush them flat when dry
Crane flies: Adult crane flies (daddy-long-legs) appear in late August, mating and laying eggs in lawns. These eggs hatch into leatherjackets—a significant lawn pest. Note crane fly activity now and be vigilant for larvae damage in autumn
Early autumn rain: When rain finally arrives after a dry spell, resist the temptation to immediately start mowing and feeding. Give the lawn a few days to begin recovery before adding additional stress

Dealing with Summer Weeds

Summer weeds fall into two categories: upright weeds like dandelions that are easily spotted and removed, and creeping weeds that spread horizontally through the lawn. It's the creeping varieties, speedwell, clover, creeping buttercup, and similar species, that cause the most problems in August.

These weeds thrive because they're adapted to the conditions that stress grass. They have shallow but extensive root systems that efficiently capture surface moisture, and their low-growing habit means they're rarely damaged by mowing. Once established, they spread outwards, gradually colonising larger areas.

The best long-term solution is healthy, thick grass that simply outcompetes weeds. But in August, when grass is stressed, selective weed treatment can help knock back weed populations before autumn recovery begins.

September

September provides the optimum conditions for renovation work on your lawn. This is because the temperature and rainfall are more consistent during this period, meaning that any seeding is more likely to germinate, and the lawn will have the time to recover before the following spring. You can click here to find our more about the scarification packages we offer

You should continue regular mowing throughout September, as weather conditions mean that your grass will still be growing. We do recommend raising the height of your mower to 2-2.5 inches at the start of this month so that your grass is at an adequate length to deal with the cooler temperatures.

Image of scarifier on a lawn in the UK that has been half scarified

What To Do

Raise your mowing height back to 2-2.5 inches as growth patterns change and temperatures drop
Continue regular mowing—grass is still growing actively in September and may need weekly cuts
Schedule scarification if your lawn has thatch buildup or moss problems—early September is ideal
Overseed thin or bare areas—September's conditions give the best possible germination and establishment
Aerate compacted areas with a solid-tine aeration
Apply autumn fertiliser—a formulation lower in nitrogen but higher in potassium strengthens roots and improves winter hardiness

Watch Out For

Drought conditions: If September turns unusually dry, you'll need to water newly seeded areas daily. Seed that dries out after germination begins will die
Heavy rain on bare soil: Intense rainfall immediately after overseeding can wash seed into clumps or off slopes entirely. If heavy rain is forecast, delay seeding by a few days

October

By October, we are well underway into Autumn, and with it, you will notice your lawn becoming blanketed with leaf fall. It is essential to clear leaves from your lawn during this period because if leaves are left to build up on the lawn, they will block sunlight and restrict vital nutrients from reaching your grass. Clearing leaves from your lawn is an easy job that can always be done with a trusted rake. However, you could invest in a leaf vacuum to make this job even easier. Fallen leaves can also be shredded to make a leaf mulch, which can be spread across your borders to help prevent weed growth.

You should also keep an eye out during October for signs of pest damage, in particular leatherjacket damage. This can look like thinning of grass growth in the lawn or areas being dug up by predators such as foxes or badgers looking to eat the leatherjackets. If you do notice you have a leatherjacket problem, TopGrass can help by applying our Grub Control Treatment to tackle these pests. You can click here to find out more about our Grub Control.

Image of UK lawn with leaf coverage with a rake propped up against a garden bag full of leaves

What To Do

Clear fallen leaves regularly—ideally weekly, or more often during heavy leaf fall. A layer of leaves can smother grass within 2-3 weeks
Use a rake, leaf blower, or mower with collection box to remove leaves—each method works, choose what suits your garden
Consider creating leaf mould—shredded leaves composted for 1-2 years make excellent soil conditioner for borders
Continue mowing as needed, typically reducing to fortnightly by month's end as growth slows
Inspect your lawn carefully for signs of pest damage—act quickly if you spot problems

Watch Out For

Leaf matting: Once wet leaves mat together, they become much harder to remove and much more damaging. Try to clear leaves while they're dry and loose
Fungal disease: The combination of moisture, mild temperatures, and decaying organic matter creates ideal conditions for fungal diseases. Remove debris and improve air circulation where possible
Waterlogging: Autumn rains can cause waterlogging on compacted or poorly-drained lawns. If water lies on the surface for extended periods, note these areas for spring aeration

November

As temperatures begin to drop during November, you may notice moss beginning to creep back into the lawn with the damper conditions. To help combat this, TopGrass applies an iron-based micronutrient spray, as part of our Late Season Treatment, that helps to control and stop moss growth.

The damp, mild conditions that often occur in November create perfect conditions for moss. While your grass slows down, moss is entering its peak growing season. Without intervention, moss can spread rapidly during autumn and winter, colonising any thin or bare areas and competing with grass for space.

This is also the time to think about lawn traffic. Wet, cool lawns are surprisingly vulnerable to damage. Soil that was firm and resilient in summer becomes soft and easily compacted. Heavy use during winter can cause lasting damage that only becomes apparent in spring.

The fallen-down autumn leaves on a green lawn.

What To Do

Give the lawn a final cut if growth continues—maintain 2-2.5 inch height and choose a dry day
Continue clearing fallen leaves until trees are bare—even a thin layer of leaves can cause problems over winter
Monitor for moss beginning to spread—the damp conditions encourage rapid moss growth
Reduce traffic on the lawn, especially when wet—soft soil compacts easily and grass can't recover damage during dormancy

Watch Out For

Moss establishment: Moss spreads rapidly in November's damp conditions. If you see moss starting to colonise bare or thin areas, note these spots for spring treatment or consider autumn moss control
Late leaf fall: Some trees hold their leaves well into November. Stay vigilant until all leaves have fallen—the last ones matter as much as the first
Fungal disease: Fusarium and other fungal diseases thrive in November's cool, damp conditions. Look for unusual circular patches or cottony growth, particularly in shaded or poorly-drained areas

December

December offers little opportunity for active lawn care. With the shortest days of the year, cold temperatures, and often wet or frosty conditions, your lawn is fully dormant. Growth has stopped, and the grass plant is simply waiting out the winter.

This doesn't mean December is without lawn care considerations, however. The decisions you make now—particularly about where you walk and how you treat the lawn during frost—affect what you'll find when spring arrives. December is about protection rather than improvement.

The festive season often means more garden activity than usual—children playing outside, parties with guests, Christmas tree installations. Be mindful of your lawn during these activities. Damage that occurs to dormant grass doesn't repair itself until spring, giving it months to worsen.

December is a month of very short days with very little sunlight, where there is little opportunity to carry out maintenance on your lawn. If you do notice moss beginning to grow and spread across your lawn, we would recommend lightly raking it out to help keep on top of it.

What To Do

Avoid walking on the lawn when frosty or waterlogged—both conditions make grass extremely vulnerable to damage
Lightly rake any visible moss patches to slow their spread and prevent them smothering grass
Clear any remaining fallen leaves—evergreen trees may still be shedding needles
Store garden furniture and ornaments off the lawn to prevent dead patches forming
If you're using the garden for winter festivities, create clear paths to protect the lawn from concentrated traffic

Watch Out For

Hidden frost: Grass can be frozen even when it doesn't look obviously frosty. If temperatures have been below freezing overnight, assume the lawn is vulnerable until it has clearly thawed
Salt damage: Road salt or de-icer splashed or tracked onto lawns causes severe damage. If you're clearing paths near your lawn, take care not to spread salt onto grass
Heavy snow: While a light snow cover actually insulates grass, heavy, compacted snow can smother it. If snow is piled on your lawn (from clearing paths, for example), spread it out rather than leaving concentrated heaps

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About Peter Arnold

Practical lawn care tips from the Top Grass team.

Marketing Manager

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Seasonal Lawn Care

The Complete TopGrass Lawn Care Calendar: Month-by-Month Guide

This is your in-depth monthly guide to lawn care!

By Peter Arnold•21 October 2025•Updated 19 January 2026•24 min read

Welcome to our calendar

Jan

January

January is a time of year when you will not need to be out on the lawn every day. The cold temperatures will slow grass growth and will therefore stop the need for regular mowing.

The plummeting temperatures of January will cause regular frosts, during this time, you should avoid walking on your lawn, as this can cause lasting damage to your grass by snapping the grass plant.